On spy hill, old enemies could be looking at a new peace

Half a mile beyond Quneitra, nothing is moving at the Israeli army observation post on a whaleback ridge above the valley - but its bristling antennae and golfball radar domes are pointing at Damascus, less than an hour's drive across the Golan.

It is a perfect day on the frontline of one of the world's most dangerous conflicts: the trees groan with apples and cherries and flowers bloom in the dry stone walls; to the north, even in summer, snow is visible on Jebel al-Sheikh - Mount Hermon - where the borders of Syria, Lebanon and Israel meet.

UN observers gazing out over the minefields between Quneitra and "spy hill" opposite see little to trouble them. The opposing armies are out of sight, their tanks and artillery - limited by agreement - dug into scrapes and bunkers. "Not much ever happens here," said a bored Slovakian corporal.

Yet if comprehensive peace is ever to come to the Middle East, there will have to be changes on this plateau. And as the world's attention focuses on the conflict between Israel and the Palestinians 40 years after the June 1967 war, the signs are that a settlement with Syria could be closer than many think.

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